We retraced our steps through the Gulf of Oman and arrived at the entrance to Muscat harbour during lunch. The Captain announced that there would be a short delay in teaching our berth as the pilot had not arrived "probably still eating his Couscous!". But he did arrived and we tied up and were amongst the first to disembark about 1.30. We were on the first (free) shuttle bus into the local market area. Our timing was perfect, as the souks close between 1.00 & 4.00 ! Some however remained open - mainly Indian/Pakistani owned. More on our souk experience later.
After getting off the shuttle we were approached by taxi operators offering local tours. We negotiated a 15EUR fee for 1 hour. Much haggling as they tried to upgrade for more hours, but we were content that we could see the main sites, which was mainly the Palace within that time. I should have said that the first thing that impressed us when we arrived was the landscape. We had imagined that all desert countries would be flat and sandy like Dubai, but Oman, or should I say Muscat where we were is extremely hilly, with huge rock faces rising almost from the sea. A most impressive landscape with many, many forts on the various cliff tops.
Our drive headed south from the port to the actual town of Muscat, which is built around the old fort. This is also the site of the Sultan's palace - an absolute marvel in the "middle of nowhere". We subsequently drove further down the coast, past the marina to the site of Parliament. They certainly don't spare expenses down there - extensive park like lawns surround the large white buildings which house parliament. As the country is an absolute monarchy, it is not clear what parliament actually does.
Our hour was soon up and we were content with what we had seen and decided to explore the soul which was partially open. The main thing they were trying to sell were stoles (wool, silk, cashmere, llama - you name it, they had it). But no, Vivian was after a long blouse or tunic top. We got to the very end and found what she wanted. Not so lucky with a man's cotton shirt however. As I said, much of the souk was closed, but it made it easier to explore the side alleys etc.
Found our way back to the waterfront and sat down to have a coffee. Vivian was so impressed with the iced coffee in Dubai that we ordered the same. Ha ha. 2 very hot black coffees plus a bowl of shaved ice! Omani coffee is very strong and apparently lots of sugar helps. I persevered and survived to tell the tale. While we were sitting there we attracted a lot more customers for the cafe owner - but no discount :-)
Berthed just opposite was the Sultan's Royal Yacht which was almost as big as our ship (well that's stretching it, but it was very large and just a not bigger than his son's one next door). They are very strict in Oman and apparently the fine for smoking in public is over $100. While still sitting having our coffee, we hear the sound of sirens and s police car pulls up, policeman gets out, checks his pistol and approaches one of the tour buses parked partially on the footpath. I don't think the driver was around as their policeman soon returned to his car, but as he walked back, as young couple took a photo. No no, you can not do that. The policeman grabbed the camera and took some time to ensure offending photos were deleted. I also noticed than when taking, or about to take photos in the soul, any women within sight immediately fully covered their heads.
By the time all this excitement was over it was 4.00 and everything was now open, so we wandered further down the street to the area of the Gold Soul. This particular one was obviously far more upmarket as it was fully air conditioned. This soul was one frequented by the locals, and being Thursday evening (pay night?) all the women were in all these expensive jewellery shops - and it looked as though they were buying. They were always in groups of 3 or more and it was hard to tell whether they were friends, relatives or the wives! The other fascinating thing was all the dress shops - I can report that the colour for next season is ----- black. That was all that was in the shops, and dozens of them too. But I must say the trim and designs were quite stunning - just not on Vivian I must add.
We wandered further through the various souks and eventually came out into the street well back from the port. Thankfully I had my trusty Tablet, with its GPS. We soon confirmed our position and headed back through the original souk. As we passed the little shop where Vivian bought her blouse, there were out table companions/friends from Perth. Amazing, considering the literally 1,000s of shops etc. Anyway, they spent a lot more than we did.
Caught the shuttle back to the ship and had only half an hour to get ready for dinner. A bit of a rush but we did it. We set sail at 6.30, bound for Mumbai. A couple more sea days to go, but they keep stealing hours from us as we head eastwards! Sharing the port with us was HMS Westminster. We are pretty sure that she was in Dubai as well. On the first day there were 2 frigates in port, but only one when we left. Reassuring that we have friends around us.
Lovely evening relaxing on the deck, rather than the banjo player. Also had more time this morning, updating the blog. Tonight is another formal night, starting with the Captain's cocktail party for Captains Circle members - which is pretty well everyone on this cruise. Never known such well travelled group of people, but the one good thing is that pretty well all of them have been to NZ - and they love it. Makes us proud to be Kiwi. On the meantime, onwards to India........
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