Tuesday 27 May 2014

Glorious glaciers

Today we have had the most glorious day scenic cruising Glacier Bay.  The weather was perfect and clear and we were able to see the mountain peaks, which is special according to the National Park Ranger on board.  As this is a National Park, the ship is not allowed to serve coffee in paper cups and there were no wooden stirrers or paper napkins.  Fortunately such restrictions were not applied to the bathroom!

I initially woke just after 3.00 and could see that it was daylight outside, but just before sunrise.  Needless to say, I didn't linger long and eventually woke just after 6.00 when we were entering the Bay.  Today was the day we needed our woolies (but not the thermals yet) as while it was clear, it was very cold, particularly on the shady side.  Took tons of photos and at the end of the bay we stopped alongside the glacier, which was about 250 ft high.  This is a growing glacier and is moving at 2ft a day.  While it would have been great to see a big chunk of ice fall off, we had to be contented with some small falls, which were probably still 10 ft.  The noise the glacier makes is just like thunder and is cracks & creaks along.  The Captain turned the ship around so people on the other side could get a good view and this was opportune for us to retreat to the cabin to enjoy in comfort.  Following that we retraced or tracks and diverted into another bay, which had a large number of icebergs -  some of which were really quite large.  About this time the crew gathered all the deckchairs 😂

Seriously though, the bay was full of the ice flow and it looked spectacular.  This second glacier is retreating at a faster rate however.  The overall history of the area is fascinating.  To date we have not seen bear or moose, but have seen whale, seal & numerous bald eagles.  As we have now left the bay the weather has changed and the cloud descended, so we are extremely grateful for the day we have experienced.

As usual this blog works backwards, mainly because we had no satellite service yesterday when we were in Skagway.  Also a beautiful day, but we were berthed under a hill, so it was cold until we ventured into town.  However we had elected to go the the Musher's Camp and experience the dogs and ride a wheeled version of a sled.  Great dogs, although the Alaskan Huskies are nothing like we expected.  They are lean & tough and most of the Mushers were up at this camp to keep their dogs on training for the long distance sled races held in Alaska.  Things we knew nothing about.  The team of dogs is normally 16 and the ones we had had no trouble pulling 7 of us around the circuit.  Clearly they really enjoy it.  We also saw some new puppies and Vivian got to hold one, which tried to chew her scarf. 

We were up about 1,000 ft and had some great views on our way up and back.  We elected to get off the tour in town and walk back to the ship in the sun.  The town is pretty well original and the historical nature has been preserved.  It was interesting to walk on true boardwalks throughout the town.

The previous day we had been in Juneau, the capital of Alaska and we walked into town and up to State Capitol, where they provided a free tour of the building and the debating chamber etc. right up Vivian's alley.  What I did learn however is that Alaskans do not pay income tax, but actually get an annual rebate from the oil royalties which are invested by the State in a permanent fund.  However it is not enough to start a new gold rush, just for the dividend.

On the afternoon we visited the salmon hatchery which was not what we had expected.  Whereas we farm salmon, this operation is purely about producing salmon to the released for others ( fishers, birds & bears etc.) to catch.  Those that survive return to the hatchery were they are "helped" with the reproduction cycle and turned into fishmeal or whatever, which is not as bad as it sounds, as all salmon dies after spawning.  Still seemed a little sad 😢

Following the salmon, it was on to the Mendenhall Glacier, which was great, but after today's experience, not quite as impressive.  We trekked a mile or so to the waterfall which runs beside the glacier, but we were a long way away from the face.  The walk however did us good, as our ships circuit has been lacking.  After this it was time for the salmon bake (smoked salmon), which was nice but the whole thing a little too "touristy" for me.  Yes, I know we are tourists, but.............

I am hopeful of uploading some photos in a couple of days when we reach Anchorage, as this area is clearly not a good area for satellites. I will not go into the frustrations I have experienced, but the end is in sight.  On that note, it is sad to think that tonight we'll get out disembarkation papers and we have just one more day (& 1 more glacier). It has been really great and we've met some great people and tonight we'll meet the Captain (from Wales) at the Captains Circle Cocktail Party, so must away and get respectable.

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